Alienware 15 R3 / 17 R4 Overheat, Performance Issues or Throttling During High CPU Stress. Description: An incorrect setting in the BIOS versions below 1.0.6 could cause a system to shut down during heavy processor usage. Under heavy load the processor's Turbo Boost will activate, generating a power spike that may result in an unexpected.
Click to expand.so much for a new improved 'vapor chamber' cooling. I think LM is the way to go, if you want to keep cool HK chips, especially in chassis as thin as AW uses. I have run further tests. The laptop rests on Coolermaster cooling pad U3 with 3 fans on full max. It seems that with both the CPU+GPU, the CPU gets too hot. The BIOS EC slows it down (to 800MHz) and then it speeds up again, exceeds the thermal limits (100C) and then the cycle repeats all over.
So while you're playing your game oblivious to what's happening, the CPU keeps cycling between 800MHz and 4.xGHz hitting the 100C all the time.To tell the truth, I would not know about it had I not been running the monitoring software in the background. The game I used (WoW) was playing as 'normal' in other words FPS would vary from 30FPS to 100FPS depending on location etc. So I would not know if a random '30FPS' was because of the CPU momentarily throttling or because of increased complexity on the screen.Joining the bandwagon, I then called Dell to ask about overheating on the CPU. They connected remotely and ran some stress tests on the CPU (Intel Extreme Tuning) and that passed, as we know, with Power Throttling cutting in before the CPU had any chance to get very hot. But then we used a CPU/GPU test with the Intel utility monitoring in the background and that showed that there was a repeated oscillation where the CPU would exceed the thermal limits, slow down, and then all over again. Just as I had discovered. For this test we had the fans on max from the BIOS.The tech support person said they'd call me tomorrow with what to do next but he suggested a replacement of the 'cooling system'.
I am not sure what 'cooling system' they will replace it with as the laptop is brand new and surely it wears the latest. But we shall see. What I read here does not come as a surprise on me.
I have seen exactly the same for this model design since middle fall 2016. Dell must start today with a full re design. And unlocked cpu is whats used in the chassis.
Not meant to run stock clocks and with massive overheating and throttling.Dell couldn't avoid it. The chassis is what it is and was designed for 4 core Skylake. And the wimpy Vapor chamber part they developed for Cpu TRIPOD HS ain't enough to remove the heat. People need to learn how Vapor Chambers works. It's clearly Dell's engineers havent done it's own home lesson since the fiasco last 2 years.
What I read here does not come as a surprise on me. I have seen exactly the same for this model design since middle fall 2016.
Dell must start today with a full re design. And unlocked cpu is whats used in the chassis. Not meant to run stock clocks and with massive overheating and throttling.Dell couldn't avoid it. The chassis is what it is and was designed for 4 core Skylake.
And the wimpy Vapor chamber part they developed for Cpu TRIPOD HS ain't enough to remove the heat. People need to learn how Vapor Chambers works. It's clearly Dell's engineers havent done it's own home lesson since the fiasco last 2 years. Click to expand.Hopefully their redesign will. They read these forums I heard so they prob solve it if the mobo space allows them room to.For my first Alienware ever I like it.
Particularly the new design. What I like most besides it’s premium look is it’s touchpad and buttons are not clicky. Like what you find in a business notebook so it’s quiet (a lot of people like it clicky but I don’t as business laptops are where I started from) the touchpad doesn’t fade from use leaving oil marks.But I’d buy again. Just more screen options be nice.
Want more than 1080p. We don’t have m Gpus anymoreSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
Click to expand.Just heard they followed it. But going off the fact that iunlock that comes on here. And that he and a few others had conversations about the heating issue which resulted in slight changes in the heatsink plus a version 2 which they claim cools better in their new refresh. Had to assume they must of at least glanced it.
Before deciding to just agreeing their was issues and changing up stuff.♂️ I mean from a logical point of view I couldn’t just randomly say to them you got heating issues, fix it and they just change it without seeing evidence of it that it’s widespread.Azor probably disappeared taking the negativity personally lolSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
Please take note of the following prior to working on your Alienware 17 R5:. Unplug the notebook: Shut down the notebook completely and disconnect it from AC power. Find a clean working area: Clear off a table, bar or other hard, flat surface to work on your notebook.
You should have at least four times the surface area of the Alienware 17 available. The area should be indoors and well-lit. Required tools: a small Phillips-head screwdriver (magnetized recommended), a small tray/container for screws (multi-compartment recommended), and a clean towel large enough to cover the Alienware 17.Disclaimer: This DIY is meant as a guide only; the steps listed apply only to the Alienware M17 R5. Follow this DIY at your own risk; NotebookReview.com takes zero responsibility for any damage caused to your device, including any warranties voided as a result of following this guide. What this Guide Covers:We’ll detail how to upgrade the following components in the Alienware 17 R5:.
Memory (RAM) – all four slots, including those under the keyboard. Storage – both available 2.5-inch drive bays.
mSATA SSD slotRemoving the Bottom Panel and BatteryIt’s necessary to follow these steps prior to following any other part of this guide.Removing the Bottom PanelComplete the steps listed in “Before you Begin” prior to following this section. Once you’ve finished them, place a towel on your working area and lay the notebook upside down on top of it with the front facing you. Two screws need to be removed in order for the bottom panel to come off; they are the only two black screws located at the back of the notebook behind the air grates. Use the Phillips-head screwdriver to remove these screws, and place them in the small container so they won’t get lost.The notebook’s entire bottom panel is one piece; to remove it, grab the corners of the chassis closest to you and wrap your thumbs around the front rubber feet, then apply horizontal pressure and pull towards you; some wiggling may be required. Slide the panel towards you until it stops (just less than a centimeter), then lift it up and remove it.
Set this aside.Removing the BatteryThis image details all of the visible components after removing the Alienware 17’s bottom panel; the battery is the black rectangular object located at the bottom center. This must be removed to reduce the risk of electrical problems when removing some of the other parts.Grasp the end of the shrink-wrapped section of the battery’s cable with your thumb and forefinger and then pull up gently; some wiggling may be required. Use minimal effort; if this appears to be taking too much effort, use your screwdriver to gently push upward on the white connector on either side (USE CAUTION). Once the cable is disconnected, unscrew the two screws holding the battery (note that these are different from the ones you already removed; separate them in your container if possible). Next, remove the battery by placing your index finger in the cutout where the battery cable lies and pulling it towards yourself. Set the battery aside.As a precaution, drain excess/leftover electricity from the notebook’s circuits by pressing the power button several times. Be careful when turning the notebook over and opening the lid to do this.Upgrading the 2.5-inch Storage DrivesOne 2.5-inch drive is located in the center of the chassis above the battery compartment and the other is to the right of the battery compartment.
Remove the four outermost screws on either drive bay, labeled in this image, to release the drive caddy from the drive bay. Once these screws are removed, remove the drive caddy as follows:. For the center drive bay, pull the black plastic tab on the right of the caddy to the left; the caddy will budge just a little. Use your finger to lift up the left edge of the caddy and remove it from the chassis at an angle to avoid damaging the drive connector. For the bottom-right drive bay, use the cutout at the bottom right of the caddy as leverage for your finger; gently pull upward and then remove the drive at an angle.Four screws hold the storage drive in its caddy. Prior to removing them, pay attention to how the drive is oriented in the caddy because your new one must be oriented in the same way (the drive pins’ positions are particularly important). As a general rule of thumb, the drive’s manufacturer label will always be visible when the drive is seated in the caddy.After installing your replacement drive in the caddy (secured with its four screws), reinstall the caddy into its slot at an angle.
Be careful when doing this; the drive must match up exactly with the slots. No significant pressure is required to make this happen; if it seems resistant, back out and double-check the orientation of the pins. Finally, replace the four screws to secure the caddy once it’s in its bay.Upgrading the Bottom Memory SlotsThe Alienware 17 has four total memory slots; these are the first two. The others, as well as the mSATA SSD, are located under the keyboard, which is described in the next section.Note: The top memory module must be removed in order to access the bottom module.Note: It’s recommended to install memory modules in identical pairs for compatibility and performance reasons.Using your thumbs, push the retaining clips on either side of the memory module apart; this will cause the memory module to pop upward and sit at about a 30 degree angle. Remove the memory module by gripping either side of it with your thumb and forefinger and pulling directly outward along the angle it’s oriented.
Avoid touching the gold pins on the bottom of the memory module after removing this because doing so can hamper functionality and/or damage the pins.Reinstalling a memory module is the opposite. Pay attention to the notch at the bottom of the memory module where the gold pins are; this will only allow the memory module to be inserted in one way. Grasp the memory module on either side with your thumb and forefinger and slide it into the slot on its 30-degree angle.
The bottom memory module must be installed first.